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Watches and Wonders 2025: The Ultimate Guide to Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier & Audemars Piguet’s New Releases and Discontinued Icons

Originally known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders began in 1991 as a prestigious, invitation-only trade fair organised by the Richemont Group. Held annually in Geneva, SIHH was created to give high-end watchmakers—many of them Richemont-owned, like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin—a space to showcase their artistry apart from the more commercial Baselworld, which was dominated by brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe.

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4/5/2025

A Brief History of Watches and Wonders: Where Horology Meets Prestige

Before we dive into the magnificent novelties and farewells of 2025, it’s essential to understand the history and significance of the Watches and Wonders event—a cornerstone of luxury horology.

From Basel to Geneva: The Evolution of a Global Watch Event

Originally known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders began in 1991 as a prestigious, invitation-only trade fair organized by the Richemont Group. Held annually in Geneva, SIHH was created to give high-end watchmakers—many of them Richemont-owned, like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin—a space to showcase their artistry apart from the more commercial Baselworld, which was dominated by brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe. However, the tides shifted in 2020 when SIHH was rebranded as Watches and Wonders Geneva, expanding its focus and format to become more inclusive and digitally accessible. By 2021, with the downfall of Baselworld and the rising demand for immersive luxury experiences, Watches and Wonders emerged as the definitive global stage for haute horlogerie.

Why Major Watch Brands Participate

Today, Watches and Wonders is not just a showcase—it’s a strategic moment of influence in the $75 billion luxury watch market. Here's why brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet make it a point to participate:

Global Spotlight: The event attracts international media, collectors, celebrities, and influencers, making it the perfect launchpad for new collections.
Prestige & Exclusivity: Participating in Watches and Wonders is a stamp of credibility and craftsmanship—an elite club reserved for the finest watch maisons.
Storytelling Platform: Brands use this moment to narrate their heritage, technical mastery, and vision through immersive booths, digital experiences, and private showings.
Market Shaping: The unveiling of new models and the discontinuation of others has ripple effects in pricing, demand, and resale value—making Watches and Wonders a market-moving event.
Networking & Deal-Making: The event fosters connections between brands, distributors, high-end retailers, and luxury clients in one curated space.

The 2025 Edition: Bigger, Bolder, and More Digital

Held in Geneva at the iconic Palexpo convention centre, Watches and Wonders 2025 has seen a record number of participating brands, from industry titans like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier to independent artisans like Laurent Ferrier, H. Moser & Cie, and MB&F. What makes this year even more remarkable is the fusion of tradition and technology—AI-powered personalisation booths, virtual walkthroughs, and limited-edition NFT timepieces are just some of the innovations shaping the future of watchmaking.

At the prestigious Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, held from April 1 to 7 at the Palexpo Exhibition Centre, the horology world witnessed an unprecedented gathering of 60 esteemed brands. This year's event marked a significant evolution, with notable newcomers such as BVLGARI and independent artisans like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Genus, Kross Studio, and MeisterSinger joining the roster. Hypebeast. Driving Culture Forward+4Global Geneva+4Monochrome Watches+4 Man of Many+2MGB WATCHES+2watchesandwonders.com +2

For the initial four days, the salon catered exclusively to retailers, journalists, and industry professionals, fostering an environment ripe for networking and collaboration. From April 5 to 7, the doors opened to the general public, offering enthusiasts an immersive experience into the world of haute horlogerie. palexpo.ch +1watchesandwonders.com +1 The 2025 edition introduced several innovative features aimed at enhancing attendee engagement:

Youth in the Spotlight: A dedicated initiative highlighting the contributions of young talents, including apprentices and recent graduates, showcasing the next generation of watchmaking craftsmanship. Global Geneva+1watchesandwonders.com +1
Public Days: An expanded schedule allowing the general public to explore the latest collections, participate in workshops, and engage directly with brand representatives. watchesandwonders.com

This year's Watches and Wonders not only celebrated the rich heritage of watchmaking but also underscored the industry's commitment to innovation and inclusivity, solidifying Geneva's status as the world capital of horology.

Rolex's 2025 Releases and Discontinuations

Introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

Rolex has expanded its repertoire with the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, marking a significant addition to their lineup. This model features an integrated bracelet design and is available in two sizes: 36mm and 40mm. Notably, the Land-Dweller is equipped with Rolex's first high-frequency movement, the Calibre 7135, enhancing timekeeping accuracy. The watch also debuts the innovative Dynapulse escapement, designed for improved durability and precision. Aesthetically, the Land-Dweller introduces the Flat Jubilee bracelet, a modern take on the classic Jubilee, offering a sleek and contemporary look.

Updates to Existing Models

In addition to the Land-Dweller, Rolex has unveiled several updates to its existing collections:

GMT-Master II: New festive models have been introduced, adding vibrant options to this iconic travel watch line. Watches World
Cosmograph Daytona: A striking turquoise-dial version has been added, offering a fresh aesthetic to this classic chronograph.
Perpetual 1908: Now available with a gold bracelet, enhancing its luxurious appeal. WatchPro
Oyster Perpetual: Introduced in new pastel-colored dials, bringing a playful touch to the collection.
Sky-Dweller: Updated with a green dial and yellow-gold case, offering a refreshed look to this sophisticated model.

Discontinued Models

Rolex has also made strategic decisions to discontinue certain models:

Oyster Perpetual Celebration Motif Dial: This particular dial variant has been phased out.
Oyster Perpetual 41mm (Ref. 124300): Replaced by the new Ref. 134300, marking an evolution in the collection.

These changes reflect Rolex's commitment to innovation while honouring its rich heritage.

Patek Philippe's 2025 Lineup and Retirements

New Model Introductions

Patek Philippe has unveiled an impressive array of fifteen new models, demonstrating their dedication to horological excellence:

Ref. 5328G-001 Calatrava: This model features an eight-day power reserve, showcasing Patek's technical mastery in combining elegance with functionality.
Nautilus and Grand Complications: The brand has introduced new variations in these esteemed lines, further cementing their status in sophisticated watchmaking.

Discontinued Models

In a move that has garnered attention from collectors, Patek Philippe has discontinued several notable models:

Nautilus Moonphase Ref. 5712/1A-001: A stainless steel model with a blue dial, first introduced in 2006.
Nautilus Ref. 5719/10G-010: A white gold variant adorned with diamonds.
Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A-001: Known for its sporty appeal and integrated bracelet.

These discontinuations make way for new innovations while enhancing the exclusivity of existing timepieces.

Cartier's Revival and Innovations

Reintroduction of the Tank à Guichets

Cartier has captivated enthusiasts by reviving the Tank à Guichets, a distinctive model first introduced in 1928. This contemporary iteration maintains the original's avant-garde design, featuring a digital time display through two apertures on the dial, powered by the specially developed 9755 MC hand-wound movement. The new Tank à Guichets is a testament to Cartier's ability to blend historical designs with modern watchmaking techniques.

Other Notable Releases

Cartier's commitment to innovation is further exemplified by:

Panthère de Cartier: Introducing new bangle designs in yellow and white gold, some models are exquisitely set with diamonds, reflecting Cartier's expertise in jewellery watches.
Tank Louis Cartier: Updated with fresh dial designs and materials, offering a contemporary take on a classic model.

These releases underscore Cartier's dedication to blending artistry with horology.

Audemars Piguet's 150th Anniversary Celebrations

Commemorating its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has unveiled several remarkable timepieces:

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "150th Anniversary": This model features an openworked design, showcasing the intricate mechanics of the new Calibre 7138 movement.
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Final Thoughts: The Future of Luxury Timekeeping Starts Now

Watches and Wonders 2025 has once again proven why it's the pinnacle event in the world of fine horology. From Rolex’s revolutionary Land-Dweller to Patek Philippe’s bold discontinuations, Cartier’s revived icons, and Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary triumphs, this year’s showcase wasn’t just about telling time—it was about telling stories, preserving legacy, and shaping the future of luxury craftsmanship. For collectors, enthusiasts, and style connoisseurs alike, these launches are more than new watches—they’re investment pieces, design statements, and in many cases, historical milestones. Whether you're drawn to the timeless elegance of the new Calatrava, the mechanical marvel of the Royal Oak Perpetual, or the avant-garde spirit of the Tank à Guichets, one thing is clear:

"The watches of today are the legends of tomorrow."

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